Hi, I'm Kirby Allison founder of The Hanger Project. The purpose of this video is to help you understand the differences between wax and cream polishes, and I understand how to use both to keep the best care possible of your leather dress shoes. The fundamental differences between wax and cream polish is that a cream polish is more for nourishment and recoloring, and a wax polish is primarily for really providing those hard waxes in order to create that high shine. Now with the cream polish, we recommend applying it to the entire shoe either with a shoeshine dauber or chamois and then buffing it off with the horse hair brush, and you can do that two or three times.
Wax polish is going to have a higher concentration of hard waxes. Now this is going to help provide that hard protective wax barrier to the shoe that is going to protect it from any type of water and then small light scuffs and scratches. You want to be careful about applying too much wax to the areas of the shoe that bend like the vamp because what happens with the hard wax polish is once those waxes dry, if you bend the shoe, those hard waxes are going to crack and provide or produce a white substance across that area. We really recommend using the hard wax primarily. You can do one or two coats on the shoe, but we really recommend concentrating the hard waxes where you want that high shine which is on the toe box and the hind quarters.
Before you apply any polish, provided that your shoes aren't particularly dirty, just buff them off with a horsehair brush just to remove any type of surface dirt. Now if you have surface dirt that is more than what a shoe shine brush can remove then I'm going to recommend using something like a leather cleaning soap in order to actually shampoo the leather. But here these Gaziano & Girlings aren't that dirty so just buffing them with this horsehair shoeshine brush is fine.
Next, I'm going to apply my cream polish. Now again, the important thing to remember with cream polish is that you really want it to be able to soak into the leather so the longer that you leave a cream polish on the shoe, the better. There's really no limit - I mean you can polish your shoes and then leave the cream polish on overnight and buff it off next morning. It's not going to damage your shoes. Now here’s the Saphir Medaille D'Or Pommadier Cream Polish, there's 13 different colors. Now the important thing to remember with color matching is you just want to get close. A lot of people call us and they want an exact match for their particular pair of shoes and even with 13 different colors it's impossible to find an exact match. So we recommend as close of a match as possible. Now if you're really concerned about changing or darkening the color of your shoes we recommend going with a slightly lighter polish. If you'd like to see kind of more of a patina or antiquing develop which I think is one of the beauty beautiful things of shining your own shoes, then you can go with a slightly darker polish. All of these polishes have a relatively light pigment compared to a shoe dye, so there's nothing that you can do that's ever going to ruin your shoe. If you shine your shoes with some polish and you don't like how they turned out, then you can use some of the Saphir RenoMat to pull that polish off and restore it back to the original finish.
So here these are a burgundy pair of shoes. I've got the burgundy Saphir Medaille d’Or shoe cream. What I like to do is apply a little bit of cream polish using a chamois and then I use the top of the lid as a pallet just to make sure that I'm not applying too much polish, and I'm just going to start massaging it into the leather. Applying moderate to firm pressure, just to really kind of help work that in there. Less is more. So you want to be applying enough polish that you're covering the entire surface of the leather, but you don't want so much polish that you see real visible build up or gunking. The reason is just because it's going to be harder to remove that polish with the horsehair brush in order to produce that shine. With this cream polish, I'm just massaging it into my leather over the entire surface of the shoe. You can go over each section multiple times - that's not going to be a problem. Once I'm comfortable with the amount of coverage I have, then I'm going to set this shoe aside and let it at least absorb the nutrients from this cream polish for five minutes.
After you've allowed the cream polish to absorb into the leather, then take a horsehair shoe shine brush and you want to buff that polish off the shoe. What you're looking to do is to really buff off any excess or uneven polish that’d been applied. Then the heat and the friction from the horsehair shoe shine brush is going to bring up the temperature of those waxes and glisage or kind of gloss them over. With a cream polish you're going to be able to get a nice soft patina and a nice soft shine, you're never going to be able to produce a high gloss shine with the wax alone.