Hi, I'm Kirby Allison. Here at the Hanger Project, we love to help the well-dressed take care of their wardrobes. In today's video, I'm going to show you how to shine a new pair of Allen Edmonds. Factory made shoes like these Allen Edmonds don't receive any polishing at the factory because there's no way to do this in an efficient automated way. In order to polish a pair of new shoes, it has to be done by hand. So whenever you receive a new pair of Allen Edmonds, despite being as beautiful as they are, they haven't been polished. So here at The Hanger Project, we always recommend that you take a little bit of time to polish a new pair of shoes. The reason is that by polishing a new pair of shoes you're hydrating the leather, you don't know how long that leather has been sitting there without any type of nourishment. And then second you're going to build a really nice finish because of the waxes and the pigments and a high quality shoe polish like the Saphir Medaille d'Or. So at the end of shining a new pair of shoes, you've really brought those shoes to life and given them dimension. And so because of that we absolutely recommend that you take a little bit of time to shine a new pair of shoes. Today, I have a brand new pair of dark brown Allen Edmonds cap toe oxfords. These are beautiful shoes that are straight out of the box and as you can see they haven't been polished.
So although the finish is beautiful because they're brand new, you don't see any depth or dimension because of the waxes of a nice shoe polish. Whenever I shine a new pair of shoes I like to start with a little bit of Saffir run of a tour. Now the reason I start with Saphir Renovatour is going to provide that deep nourishment and conditioning to the leather. Again, you don't know how long it's been since these shoes were on the shelf and so it's just nice to make sure that you're properly hydrating the leather before you're wearing them just to keep that leather soft and supple. Here at The Hanger Project, we recommend using the Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish, the high concentration of pigments is going to do the best job recovering the leather and renewing the finish.
Also the nice soft waxes are going to begin to build that protective wax finish that really gives a shoe the pop that you want from them. Next I'm going to use some Saphir Pate de Luxe Wax Polish the hard waxes in a wax polish are going to get continue to build that protective wax finish. Someone apply one or two coats on the entire shoe and then begin to build a nice kind of high gloss finish on the caps. Now I'm not going to go crazy on these shoes but I will use a little bit of our dark brown sphere mirror glass to help accelerate that process. So I'm going to use a little bit of Saphir Mirror Gloss to just give a little bit of dimension and differentiation from the caps from the rest of the shoe. So lastly I'm going to replace the laces with a pair of our Sovereign Grade round waxed shoelaces. Our Sovereign Grade laces we have made and Northhampton to the highest standard and so it's just a more elegant beautiful lace. Our Sovereign Grade laces are available in 75 and 80 centimeter lengths. These are size 10 shoes and with 6 eyelets I'm going to use the longer 80 centimeter length just to ensure that the ends of the laces are long enough to tie easily. If you have any questions during this video please ask them in the comments section below. I get back to all those questions personally.
The first step is to always condition a new pair of shoes using the Saphir Renovateur. The Saphir Renovateur is like liquid gold, it's a mink oil based cleaner conditioner and it just does an incredible job penetrating into leather and hydrating it. The reason that this is important with a new pair of shoes is that the leather has not been conditioned since it left the tannery and you just don't know how long the leather has been sitting there. So I always like to condition a new pair of shoes to just feed that leather which is probably a little bit dry since it's been sitting on the shelf for a while. So I'm going to remove the shoe laces again as I mentioned earlier. I don't always remove the shoe laces whenever I shine a pair of shoes because I find that it places a lot of unnecessary strain on the eyelets but with a new pair of shoes that hasn't been laced, it's a great opportunity to do so. So first, I'm going to apply the Saphir Renovateur. I like to do so with just a cotton chamois.
As you can see I've got one of our Hanger Project Cotton Chamois here. This is different than the high shine chamois in that it is plusher. And so I find that it actually does a better job applying green polish with this chamois versus our high shine chamois. So just get a little bit of cream polish on the tip the chamois and then you're just going to massage it into the leather using a medium to firm pressure and small circular motions. Now you can really see how dry this leather was because once I applied the cream polish you can see how it darkens. Just like with anything that's dry, if it darkens its color whenever you apply polished to it it just means the leather was pretty dry. Just look at the hydration. I mean it's really incredible stuff. One of the things that I especially appreciate about the Saphir Renovateur is how versatile it is.
You could really use it on almost any smooth leather from calfskin, to cordovan, to exotics so it's just a great kind of all purpose cleaner and conditioner. It doesn't have any pigment in it. So again you can use it on any shoe regardless of the color. And if you're only going to use one product to polish your shoes without question it'd be the Saphir Renovateur. After you've allowed the Saphir Renovateur to a dry, buff it off with the horsehair brush. Since these are dark brown shoes, I'm going to use my dark colored bristle brush. And the reason that you would use a dark colored bristle brush is more about just keeping your dark polishes separate from your light polishes so that you don't end up with any streaking. This is our Hanger Project 100% Pig Bristle Brush. After just one coat of the Saphir Renovateur, you could really see how much better these shoes are beginning to look. For one the beginning to shine because the Saphir Renovateur contains soft waxes and second the patina, the depth of the shoe is beginning to really come out as you're nourishing that leather and feeding it. You could always apply more than one coat of the Saphir Renovateur. The more coats you apply, the deeper going to nourish the leather. But here in this video I'm just going to apply one.
Step two, I'm going to apply the Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish. Now, a pigmented cream polish like the Saphir Pommadier Cream is what we recommend for the primary use in polishing a pair of shoes. The reason is that when compared to a traditional wax polish like a hard wax polish, a cream polish is going to do a better job nourishing the leather and also has a higher concentration of pigments in it that will do a better job re-coloring the leather, renewing any scuffs or scratches and then just continuing to develop that patina and the depth of the finish itself. If you need any help choosing the right color polish for your Allen Edmonds, take a look at our Allen Edmonds shoe polish color guide video that we have on our YouTube channel. I'm going to apply this Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish in the same way that I applied the Saphir Renovateur, I'm going to use a cotton chamois, and then just kind of dab it along the leather so that I don't get too much polish in any one area. And then I'm just going to massage it into the leather again using medium to firm pressure and small circular motions.
After you've applied the Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish I set the shoe aside and allow it three or five minutes to dry. So while the left shoe is drying, I'm going to apply Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish to my right shoe. Now that the polish is dry I'm going to buff out the polish using or Hanger Project horsehair shoeshine brush. I'm using our large brush which honestly I prefer just because the bristles are longer and I'm less likely to jam the shoe with the brush itself. All of our Hanger Project brushes use 100 percent tail hair which is less like the shed and as you can see we also pin all of her brushes to a higher density so you just get a better buff using our brush than you do something that you'd otherwise find at your local shoeshine store. Another reason I like to use horsehair at this stage is again it's a softer hair than pig bristle and so it's just going to do a better job buffing out the higher shine than what you get with the pig bristle brush which is going to take more polish off. Now that I've got this polish dry I'm gonna buff it with a horsehair brush and you know what we're doing here is the friction of the bristles against the leather is going to pull off any extra polish. And then it's going to begin to shine those waxes. So at this point you can really see a shine beginning to develop. I mean look at that after just one coat of the Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish, these shoes look fantastic. So again that's why I really recommend shining a new pair of shoes, even though they're brand new out of the box. They're never going to look as good as they do with a little bit of polish.
Another benefit of this Saphir Medaille d'OR Pommadier Cream Polish is that it uses such a high quality wax that not only can you see that a shine is produced with much more ease but it's also going to be longer lasting. And so it just persists longer and it can be easily rebuffed by just rebuffing with the horse hair brush. So there we go left shoe is done, I'm going to set that aside and then buff the right shoe. So here we are with just one coat of the Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish and you can really see the shoes beginning to take a shine. I always like to apply two coats of my Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish because the pigments are going to do a better job saturating that finish and it's just going to really deeply condition that leather and begin to develop that soft shine. Now one coat was great as you can see two coats is even better. So I've applied two coats of the Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish. I've nourished and conditioned the leather even more than I did using the Saphir Renovateur. I've added pigment to help grow new and saturate the finish and then the soft waxes had begun to develop that nice soft shine that you expect in a beautiful pair of dress shoes.
Step three is to apply the Saphir Pate De Luxe wax polish. The hard waxes in a proper wax polish are going to begin to build that really high shine. You want to be a little careful in how you apply a hard wax polish because if you apply too much across the vamp you'll end up with cracking or a wide residue. So I like to apply one coat of the wax polish to the entire shoe and then I'll come back and begin to build up more of a high gloss shine just on the toe cap and then optionally on the heel quarters. The reason you want to concentrate the high gloss shine on the toe in the heel quarters is because that's the hard countered area of the shoe. Basically these areas of the shoe are reinforced with a hard piece of leather that doesn't flex or bend so you don't have to worry about the waxes cracking like what you would across the vamp. I really prefer using our high shine chamois when applying waxes. Now our Hanger Project High Shine chamois we have made out of a super 180 cotton shirting and it just has a really tight weave. You don't have to worry about any fuzz getting onto the finish and disrupting the shine. So this is really the cloth of choice for applying wax polish. So I have a dark brown Saphir Pate de Luxe Wax Polish. And I'm going to apply it using the high shine chamois. My first coat is going to be the entire shoe. And then what I'm going to do is concentrate this just on the cap to really begin that build that high shine. I have the first coat of Saphir Pate de Luxe applied to the entire shoe and allowed three to five minutes to dry. And then I'm going to buff it off using a special technique. I'll show you about a moment.
Now that the first coat of the Saphir Pate de Luxe Wax Polish is dry, I'm going to buff off the wax, not using a horsehair brush but instead using my high shine cotton chamois with a little bit of water. Now one little trick to get a really fast shine is actually to use cold water. So I took the water for this out of the refrigerator. And again the cold water just does a better job hardening those waxes as you buff it off. So I've got a little bit of water on my chamois. And I'm just going to began polishing this really quickly. You can actually just dab a little bit of wax polish onto the chamois and that helps also. So this is more about really bringing that wax polish up to a high shine than it is about buffing it off. You can still buff it up using a horsehair brush if you don't have the time to do this but I just find that using the high shine chamois, a little bit of cold water and just a little bit of wax polish is going to produce a higher glass shine than buffing with the horsehair brush alone. We actually outlined this method in another video called the Berluti method and this is one of the ways that Olga Berluti was able to develop such a high gloss shine on her shoes is she actually didn't use any cream polish at all. She primarily used wax polish with cold water. She'd actually use ice water. And a nice cotton chamois like this.
As you can see the hard waxes in the Saphir Pate de Luxe are really beginning to elevate this shine, so I'm going to actually apply just a little bit more of a wax polish onto the toe cap and let this dry while I buff off the wax polish on the right shoe. And then what I'm going to do next is introduce the Mirror Gloss and just show you how quickly with just a little bit of work using the Mirror Gloss you can elevate the shine of the cap and how nice of an effect that does, really providing just a nice little shine. Now that I buffed the wax polish of the entire shoe using my chamois I'm going to apply a little bit more Pate de Luxe Wax Polish onto the cap itself and I'll set this aside and allow it to dry and then after I'm done with this shoe, we're going to transition to really concentrating in the cap to develop a little bit of a higher gloss shine right there. Okay so I've finished applying the Saphir Pate de Luxe to the entire shoe and now I'm going to transition to really focusing just on the cap. Now that cap is hard countered and what that means is that there is an additional piece of hard leather that stiffens this area of the shoe to prevent it from flexing. It's what allows the cap to hold its shape but that also allows you to develop a nice high gloss shine on the cap without having to worry about it cracking.