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Bespoke Lifestyle News Travel

London Savile Row Walking Tour | Huntsman v Henry Poole v Anderson & Sheppard House Style Comparison

Savile Row Walking Tour

During our trip to London earlier this year, we had the distinct pleasure of getting to tour many of the most prolific tailors on Savile Row to discuss what makes each house style unique.

 

Huntsman Tailor

Huntsman is one of the oldest and most prolific tailors on Savile Row. Founded in 1849 by Henry Huntsman, Huntsman has been on the same location on Savile Row for 100 years.  The Huntsman House cut is characterized by a single button, high waisted cut that is deeply rooted in equestrian riding. A style that is really world-renowned in tailoring. The suit is completely hand-cut and hand-sewn by master tailors.

 

Chittleborough & Morgan

While there are many historic tailors on the Row, they are also many emerging/more modern tailors. One of them is Chittleborough & Morgan. Joe Morgan the head cutter was one of the original tailors at the legendary NUTTERS of Savile Row back in the 60s and 70s before striking out with Roy Chittleborough (now retired) to start their own firm. Chittleborough & Morgan are known for their exuberant house style, featuring a very padded shoulder, wide lapels, and a nipped waist. Chittleborough & Morgan take pride in taking care of every detail, both seen and unseen. They will even hand stitch scenes onto the canvas on the insides of jackets.

 

Gaziano and Girling

Gaziano and Girling are the first and only luxury shoemakers on the row. Making shoes with the same quality of materials as their bespoke offering, Gaziano and Girling offer one of the finest Ready-to-Wear shoes in the world. The shoes feature details like a fiddleback waist typically seen on bespoke shoes, as well as a high-density stitched outsole with an invisible channel stitching. Gaziano and Girling are known for having a modern British aesthetic with a more chiseled toe shape on popular models like St James II. For those who want a more conservative shoe, Gaziano & Girling have developed their Classic Range, which features more subdued detailing.

 

Henry Poole

Henry Poole is the original tailor on Savile Row, dating their inception back to 1806. While Poole is the oldest tailor on the row, their style has been continually updated to keep with modern tastes and needs. The coat is cut with a close chest and a neat, non-roped sleeve head. The chest and back are cut with no extra fabric with the exception of a bit a drape in the sleeves.

Anderson & Shepard

Unlike many of the other tailors on Savile Row and the UK, Anderson & Shepard is really known for their soft tailoring style, where comfort is key. The house style is characterized by a high armhole and a full cut chest, creating a jacket that is as comfortable after a day of wearing as when it is put on. According to the head cutter, everything about the cut has a softness to it and nothing is to sharp. Anderson & Shepard is also known for dressing some of the most famous men of the golden age of Hollywood such as Fred Astaire and Cary Grant.

 

For more details on our visit and to hear the conversations between Kirby and the tailors follow the link in below!

https://youtu.be/fgCDHWI-xYo

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FAQ's Lifestyle News

Dress for Success! – What to Wear for an Interview

Many of you may feel that what you wear for an interview is a secondary concern, but a couple of months ago, it was the top thought on my mind. I had been contacted by Kirby to meet following the news that I was going to the finals of the World Championship in Shoe Shining. Working in men’s clothing retail, I was typically one of the best-dressed guys most places I went and never gave it much thought past that. This occasion was different though. Knowing that Kirby was a man of both knowledge and taste on all things menswear I really had to think through what I would wear to our meeting. I thought about all the little details that he may notice; did I pick a good tie, did my jacket fit properly, were my pants to0 short(probably). I nervously put a couple looks together before deciding what I would wear.

While being prepared for all the questions in an interview about your work experience, product knowledge, and education are all extremely important, there is no denying that a strong visual impression is made when you meet someone for the first time, either conscious or subconscious. Whether you are someone like me who cares about clothes and the minutia of style, or just someone who wants to be presentable and respectful for your interview these guidelines will definitely point you in the right direction.

  1. A solid foundation

Every outfit must have a solid foundation, and for men that means shoes. If you are budgeting how much to spend on an outfit for an interview or just to have in your wardrobe, I highly recommend spending the most on your shoes. If you purchase a pair of high-quality shoes and maintain them well, they can last decades. I used to shine shoes for my tailor, and he had many pairs of beautiful Berluti whole cut shoes that he had been given as a gift. They were in immaculate condition and incredibly classic. He told me that the shoes were probably older than I am. Although he wore them gently, he also took proper care of them, something every young professional should learn how to do.

We recommend that for your footwear that you select a black or espresso leather cap toe oxford lace up. While these may seem like a boring and unexciting shoe to spend a significant amount of money on, remember this. An interview is not a time to show “self-expression” through your clothing. Wearing a well-polished pair of oxfords is a simple and elegant choice that shows professionalism.

  1. The Armor

It sounds clique at this point, but it is true, a suit really is a man’s modern armor. While your job may not require a suit, we wholeheartedly recommend having one. If you are only are going to have one suit in your wardrobe, it should be navy. The great thing about a navy suit in a year-round weight fabric is that it can act as three different outfits.

One, the full suit. You cannot go wrong wearing a suit to an interview. The worst thing that can happen is being slightly overdressed, which we believe to be much better than being underdressed.

Two, just the jacket. If you get a suit in a lightweight fresco or tropical wool, the suit jacket can double as an excellent blazer that would look very smart with grey or tan wool trousers.

Third, just trousers. The navy trouser is a staple of every man’s wardrobe and looks great with just a shirt and tie, or with an odd jacket (more on that later)

  1. Fit, fit, and fit!

Unlike many types of clothing that can fit well with no alterations, tailoring is not one of those things. Regardless of how much you spend on your suit or blazer, getting it tailored is key. It is always better to have a cheap suit that has been altered, vs an expensive one that does not fit. Finding a good alterations tailor can be very difficult and costly depending on where you are, but once you find one that is good, you will find yourself taking in old items to get the fit perfect.

We will cover proper etiquette for getting alterations in the future…

One important thing to remember when starting out with tailoring is that a good alterations tailor will know how to alter your clothes to fit your body type best. Your jacket should have a bit of shape without being tight. Having a ¼ inch of shirt cuff showing is the perfect amount.

The trousers should fit comfortably, while still having good lines. I would opt for a slight break in your trousers. If they are too long, they will look sloppy, too short and you might look like you are a bit too fashionable(me).

  1. Button Up

This will be the easiest part of your outfit to choose. Wear a white poplin dress shirt with a spread collar and button cuffs.  The hardest part of finding a good dress shirt is finding the right collar that will compliment your tie as well as your suit. If your suit has a wider lapel, then picking a shirt with small collar point would look disproportional. You should aim to have your lapel width, collar point, and tie width all about the same width.

  1. Accessories

This is where many guys feel the need to go overboard, in an interview, wearing a tie bar, cufflinks, or other such items would not be appropriate. Remember that less is more, and subtlety is key. There are only two or three things you should be wearing, tie, pocket square, and maybe a watch.

For the tie, I would recommend a grenadine weave tie in either a solid dark color or with a stripe to add just a little something. A crisp white pocket square in a TV fold with just a small amount showing will do the trick.

  1. Conclusion

This sums up the outfit I wore to my first meeting with Kirby almost exactly. I wore a Dark Blue Tropical Wool Jacket, Medium Grey Trousers, spread collar dress shirt, double monk strap shoes, a dark green grenadine tie, and a white pocket square.

I remember walking into my meeting with Kirby feeling confident, nothing was too showy, the fit was good, and I was ready. Hopefully, this article will help alleviate some of the stress of whatever interview you are preparing for and help you feel confident and ready.

 

If you have any questions about what we covered in this article or have any questions about menswear, send me an email at caleb@hangerproject.com

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News

The Hanger Project in Wall Street Journal

The Hanger Project was featured in a Wall Street Journal article detailing why to use Luxury Hangers and why they are becoming so popular. Kirby was quoted on how cheap hangers don’t provide support and create unwanted puckering—or “Shoulder Mountains”—on the shoulders.

Cheap Hangers are either too narrow so the shoulder is falling off the end of the hanger or is too large,” says Kirby Allison.

The article starts out describing the rise of luxury goods and their proliferation in the market to provide for the demand in luxury garment care. We agree that there is a now a movement of people who are upgrading their current lifestyle through making everyday activities more extraordinary. The article also brings to light the subtleties that make all the difference in preserving fine garments, like our luxury hanger’s wide shoulder support to prevent clothing distress and damage.

Read the full article below:
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News

A Suitable Wardrobe Acquisition

We are excited to announce that The Hanger Project has acquired A Suitable Wardrobe. I, Kirby Allison, grew up reading A Suitable Wardrobe and learning from Will Boehlke’s writing. When he launched the A Suitable Wardrobe web store, I was continually amazed at his taste level and capacity to seek out the highest-quality makers. It is a huge honor to be able to continue the legacy of A Suitable Wardrobe.

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An important element of this acquisition is the commitment that both Will and I have in continuing to provide the highest quality content and products. Together, we will republish his entire archive of content, as well as add new pieces to this amazing written collection. Ultimately, we hope to publish a book together. We seek to be a leading voice in classic men’s style.

The Hanger Project and A Suitable Wardrobe will soon be integrated to share a common platform and all orders will be fulfilled out of our warehouse here in Dallas, Texas. There are minor details still being worked out, but know that our goal is for you to have the best experience while navigating and shopping our collection.

I would like to personally thank you for your support of A Suitable Wardrobe. I hope that through our new acquisition we will enrich both your knowledge of men’s style as well as your wardrobe.

I’m super excited about what we will be able to bring you, our customers.

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News

Shoe Shine Event Dallas: A Huge Success

Our First Dallas Shoe Shine Event was a great success! Hosted at the Hastens Dallas Store in the Design District, shoe enthusiasts gathered to shine their shoes, enjoy cocktails and visit among good company.
Even though Kirby Allison and other Bespoke artisans were on hand, the real stars of Thursday’s event were the attendees. Guests came with their shoes and their questions for the experts. Here are a few quotes from some of our great guests:

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Lyle said:
“I really like using the Saphir Shoe Shining products. They have a soft hand and are really easy to work with as opposed to other shoe products I have used in the past.”

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Peter and Bill are soon to be Father and Son-in-law. They attended The Hanger Project’s event to bond over one of Peter’s favorite rituals: shining his shoes.

Peter said:
“I have been shining my shoes since I was 18. Out of habit, I binge-shine about 8 pairs of shoes at a time. I have really noticed a difference in continued use of the Saphir products on my shoes. The products really soak into the shoe leather and make fora better shine.”

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Another Father and Son attended our event to get guidance on a pair of beloved Cordovan Shoes. Father Ron came for moral support as son Brian sought out advice on how best to take care of his shoes. Brian expressed a common customer woe we see at The Hanger Project: “I just don’t want to ruin my shoes.” To which one of our specialists assured him that anything done with Saphir creme or wax polish can be undone. There is always a solution to a polish that doesn’t turn out just right and don’t be afraid to start over.

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News

New York Shoe Shine Event – Scotch, Cigars, and Polish

On Tuesday, February 17, Kirby Allison from The Hanger Project hosted an exclusive Shoe Shine Event for customers and other men-of-style in New York City. The event was a huge success, with over 25 people coming together over scotch and cigars to experience the true luxury of Saphir Shoe Polish.

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News

Wounded Warrior Project

 

Wounded Warrior with boy band

This past Friday Kirby Allison’s Hanger Project was proud to be a sponsor for the Wounded Warriors Project Style & Beauty Suite event in Hollywood, CA. The Wounded Warriors organization’s goal is to recognize and support veterans and their families.The Style & Beauty Suite brought veterans and their families to California for a day of pampering, gifts, parties and prizes. Wounded Warriors rubbed elbows with celebrities such as Actress Wendy Davis and Grammy nominated recording artist Kenny Lattimore and had their pick of a wonderful assortment of take-aways, including some of our very own products.“Everything we do at Wounded Warrior Project is built around honoring and empowering this generation’s injured service members, whether that be through one of our 19 different programs or through events like the Style and Beauty Suite, ” said Adam Silva, chief development officer, Wounded Warrior Project. “It is important for us to continue to show our gratitude for their sacrifices so that they may never be forgotten and to reiterate our lifetime commitment to their ever-changing needs; and we are so thankful for all the celebrities and sponsors who participated in this special day to help WWP do just that.”

Kirby Allison’s Hanger Project is glad to help honor our nation’s veterans and help in the Wounded Warriors Project’s goals to raise awareness for the needs of injured veterans.

To read more and view photos from about the Wounded Warriors Project Style & Beauty event, click through to Buzzfeed’s article.

To learn more about what you can do to support our veterans, visit the Wounded Warriors Project’s website.

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News

Our winner for #ShoeShineSunday

Stephen T shoes

Congratulations to StephenT! He won the drawing for this past #ShoeShineSunday and earned his choice of one of our luxurious Drake’s of London cashmere ties.

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News

Men’s Valet Focus Group III

As many of our loyal customers know, I have been working on developing the ultimate men’s dressing valet. The internet is full of cheap dressing valets made in China. However, for the man who really honors his wardrobe and enjoys the ritual of getting dressed in the morning, I feel that his dressing valet should be of the same quality of the rest of his furniture.

These constraints have been my primary deterrents for having something made. I would rather not do something at all than do it poorly. However, I have begun working with a custom Dallas furniture maker that does absolutely fantastic work. Really, really high-end work. After discussing the idea of the garment valet, the owner of the workshop committed to helping me bring this ideas into reality (he’s the same one that makes our Deluxe Shoeshine Valets that we have constructed at of his leftover exotic hardwoods).

You can view our first two iterations here and here. However, our third draft is my favorite:

Valet Draft 3 Valet Draft 3

 

Let me know what you think. After some more feedback. I’ll probably look into having the first prototype made.

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News

New York Trunk Show This Weekend

Style Forum x New York City Trunk Show

Join Kirby this weekend in New York for the Style Forum x NYC Trunk Show Event. He’ll have a selection of our accessories items, including new Drake’s ties and scarves.

The Trunk Show will be Saturday and Sunday noon thru 7:00 PM.