Categories
Bespoke Uncategorized

Gaziano & Girling Bespoke Trial Shoe Overview

In today’s post, we will be going over the unboxing of Kirby’s Gaziano & Girling trial bespoke black cap-toe oxford.

For those that have been following along with this process, there is no question that Daniel Wegan, the 2019 World Championship in Shoe Making Champion, has one of the most precise and exacting bespoke processes of any of the makers that we at Kirby Allison’s Hanger Project have seen.

There have been three fittings for this shoe where Daniel has done a trial shoe, then cut it up to see exactly how the last is mimicking the foot, and how the shoe is fitting. Specifically, the way the shoe is reacting and whether or not the creasing is in the right place. All these steps working towards this current stage, where Daniel then makes a fully wearable trial shoe. The purpose of the wearable trial shoe is to have a final point of validation to ensure that everything is perfect and correct with the shoe and the last fitting before producing the final shoe. This is an ethical way of doing his work because it ensures that by the time you receive your first shoe from Daniel and Gaziano & Girling, it is going to fit perfectly. There should be no adjustments needed, or perhaps only minor adjustments, rather than having to begin the process of refining the last and fit, in subsequent pairs of shoes, as some other shoemakers do.

These shoes are meant to be considered a throwaway pair of shoes, simply to validate the fit. Daniel instructed that if the shoes fit perfectly, then Kirby was able to simply throw the shoes away. If after a few days there is anything that feels like it is a little off, then Kirby will take them to see Daniel, who will cut them up and check the fit.

The shoes are not welted and have just a simple rubber outsole. They are meant to reproduce the structure of the final shoe and be worn outside for a few days.

For the full analysis of the fit of Kirby’s new trial shoes, follow the link below!

Categories
Bespoke

Going Through MyTailor Bespoke Process: An Overview

Over the past several months we have been going through the thorough MyTailor measurement and fitting processes. Joe Hemrajani is the man behind MyTailor and their operation in Hong Kong. Joe started in the tailoring industry in the 70s as an apprentice in his family’s shop. After studying in Germany to learn more advanced manufacturing techniques, he and his brothers started doing trunk shows throughout the U.S. and still travel here to this day.

Kirby commissioned a couple of different pieces from the different lines that MyTailor offers. The first being an exquisite Holland and Sherry, Sherry Cash sport jacket. This jacket was made from MyTailors more economical line, with predominantly machine-made construction, with the notable exceptions of the handsewn collar and armhole attachments. The pattern is developed through a CAD system, which is a computer system that creates the pattern based on the measurements taken and then imputed by the tailor.

The second item Kirby commissioned was a fully handsewn and hand cut suit with two trousers cut in different styles. The jacket features many handsewn details such as a hand padded label and all hand stitch buttonholes. For the trousers, the first trouser being a more relaxed silhouette designed to be worn with braces to create a line that drapes beautifully. The second being slightly more fitted while still having an incredible drape. Cut in the same, great Drapers 5 Star Fabric, the second trouser features side adjusters and a high waisted fit. The leg tapers slightly from the knee down, creating a clean, modern line.

For a full analysis for Kirby’s new commissions as well as the full process, see the videos linked below…

Categories
Accessories Bespoke Lifestyle

Lavabre Cadet Made-To-Order Gloves

We’re excited to launch this year’s special project with the renowned French glove maker Lavabre Cadet. They are easily considered one of the finest glove makers in the world. Lavabre Cadet is offering Hanger Project customers the opportunity to commission a pair of semi-bespoke gloves constructed from individual hand tracings. Following the success of last year’s special project, we have added two new styles to this year’s special order.

We are pleased to offer this rare, exclusive opportunity for a bespoke-quality Lavabre Cadet gloves without the visit to Paris. Each pair of gloves commissioned through this Special Project will be handcrafted from an individualized pattern based on hand tracings provided by you. These custom handmade gloves are available in the rare materials of polished kidskin, suede kidskin, or peccary and now alligator.


The Specifics:

We will send each customer hand tracing forms once their order’s confirmed. We’re accepting orders through July 31st with gloves being delivered no later than December 15th.
All of our gloves are made with full quirks. They’re the small triangular pieces that fit between the fingers of the glove which allow them to sit more naturally. Quirks require a significant amount of additional work and sadly a detail no longer commonly found. It is our pleasure to be able to offer this on our Lavabre Cadet gloves.
All of our gloves are available with custom monogramming.

Materials:

Kid Skin Gloves

Lavabre Cadet - Kidskin Gloves

Lavabre Cadet is one of the few glove makers out there still making gloves out of kidskin. It is the skin from a baby goat versus most gloves which are made from Nappa leather. Kidskin is incredibly soft and supple and a luxurious material for gloves. The nerves of our kidskin gloves are sewn by hand which gives a nice subtle wave and elegance to the palm of the hand. Our kidskin gloves are available with inside machine stitching which allows for a formal sleek look or outside machine stitching. Alternatively, for an additional level of workmanship, outside hand stitching is available upon special request.

Peccary gloves

Lavabre Cadet - Peccary Gloves
Now the king of all materials for glove without question is peccary. A peccary is a small, wild rodent. The peccary produces an absolutely soft, supple and visually interesting skin that makes for an incredible glove. It’s one of those materials that aren’t widely available. If you’re able to find a pair of peccary gloves they are almost certainly made with a two-piece pattern. This means that the top part and the bottom part of the glove are cut separately and then sewn together. What that results in is an interior seam along the index finger and glove. Exclusive to our special project and really drawing on Lavabre Cadet’s incredible craftsmanship and access to materials, we’re offering the opportunity to commission a pair of pecary gloves and a rare, one-piece pattern. This is exceptionally rare because of the difficulty finding these wild skins in good enough condition to allow for both the front the back part of the glove to be sourced from the same skin. Famous French luxury goods maker Hermes is one of the few places that you can find pecary gloves, but even they stopped selling one-piece peccary gloves because they were no longer able to consistently source this material. This year we’re also allowing your peccary gloves to be lined with cashmere or silk should you require a warmer glove. Our peccary skins are available in a dark brown, a grey, a cork and new for this year a mid-brown. Additionally, all of our peccary gloves are finished with hand stitching along the border.

Peccary with Alligator Trim

Lavabre Cadet - Peccary with Alligator Trim Gloves
Now new for this year, we’re offering a very exciting variation of our pecary gloves and that is a black pecary glove with the dark brown alligator trim. This takes the peccary glove to an entirely new level. This glove is made with inside stitching, full quirks, and three hand-sewn veins. The crocodile trim is on the interior of the thumb and also along the border of the wrist. Because of the alligator trim, these gloves are made either with an interior silk lining or cashmere lining and inside stitching.

Alligator gloves

Lavabre Cadet - Alligator Gloves
New for this year and exceptionally rare, our alligator gloves sourced from Louisiana alligator. Yes, that’s right. Alligator; these gloves are nothing short of awesome. Again here we see the exceptional quality of sourcing from Lavabre Cadet. The alligator is so incredibly soft that they’re able to construct these gloves with inside stitching. That may seem like a small detail, but most alligator or crocodile gloves have to have outside stitching because the skins are too stiff to be folded inside to allow that inside stitching. This is an incredibly formal and sleek glove. We’re offering this alligator in both black and a dark brown. One of the most unique aspects of this Lavabre Cadet special project or digital trunk show is to have your pair of gloves made based on an individualized hand tracing.

After every order is confirmed we will follow up with you and send you a hand tracing and sketching sheet that includes everything you need to take your hand tracings. Then we ask that you mail them back to us or scan and email them. Once all the special orders have been bundled together we’re gonna send all these to the Lavabre Cadet Maitre Gantier so that they can create your customized pattern based on your hand tracing.

How to Conduct the Hand Tracing for Your Lavabre Cadet Gloves

First, measure the width of your hand across the knuckles with the hand gently closed. Secondly, provide a hand tracing. On the last page, a measuring tape that you can cut out is included. Just cut this out or if you have a measuring tape at home you can use that. Grip this measuring tape in between your index finger and your thumb and then wrap it around your hand and gently close your fingers — don’t clench your fist. Then trace your hand — you want to make sure your entire hand fits on the sheet and then with a pen or a pencil at a 90-degree angle to the paper you want to start at your wrist and just gently trace around your whole hand. (Now if you can remember to take off your wedding band before you do this as it can disrupt the process.) And then make sure you get it into your wrists. It’s important to take it into the wrist because that is going to let them know how far the wrist of the glove actually needs to come up. So there we go.

If you have any questions about this process please feel free to reach out to customer service. We’d be more than happy to answer all of your questions. And once you’re done with your hand tracings, we’ll give you an address to mail these to.
Categories
Accessories Bespoke Lifestyle

Kirby Allison Recrafting Program

Only the best.

In our quest to provide the best in shoe care, Kirby Allison has partnered with a 17-time award-winning, third-generation cobbler to launch an exclusive recrafting and repair service using only the finest materials and best craftsmanship.

All shoes will be fully inspected and meticulously repaired using JR Rendenbach oak-bark tanned outsoles and combination heels. Extra care is taken to ensure outsoles are restitched through original welt holes in order to further preserve and prolong the life of the shoe. Every pair can be fitted with optional Lulu or Triumph toe plates and with invisible channel stitching.

Upon completion, every pair will be fully conditioned and polished using Saphir Medaille d’Or shoe polish and have their shoelaces replaced with our own Kirby Allison Sovereign Grade shoelaces. No detail is spared in our quest to provide the highest-quality recrafting and resoling service in the United States.


Recrafted to the SSIA Silver Cup Standard

Your shoes will be thoroughly recrafted by our award-winning cobbler to the SSIA Silver Cup contest standards, for which he also serves as a judge. The SSIA Silver Cup is the most prestigious award for the shoe repair trade and specifies that shoes should be repaired to their original condition.


JR Rendenbach Oak-Bark Tanned Outsoles

Our recrafting program exclusively uses JR Rendenbach’s oak-bark tanned outsoles, which are widely considered to be the best outsoles in the world. Using a traditional tanning process that takes over a year to complete, JR outsoles are regarded for their combination of longevity and flexibility.


All Cork Filling Repaired or Replaced

We don’t simply resole your shoes. Every pair is thoroughly inspected once opened. Any damaged corking is fully stripped and replaced while corking in good condition is saved in order to preserve the original comfort and fit only achieved once a shoe has molded to the foot.


New Sovereign Grade Shoelaces and a complete Saphir Shoe Shine

Every pair of shoes that passes through our recrafting program will receive a full Saphir shoe shine using Saphir Renovateur, Pommadier Cream Polish, and Pate de Luxe wax to ensure that they are returned in perfect condition. In addition, all shoelaces will be replaced with our Kirby Allison Sovereign Grade Laces.


Optional Triumph or Lulu Toe Plates

For those who walk extensively in their shoes, add a pair of Triumph brass or Lulu stainless toe plates during the repair process to extend the lifetime of your shoes.

 


Recrafting Options

Kirby Allison Certified Recrafting

Our Kirby Allison Silver Cup Recrafting will return your shoes to like-new condition. Your shoes will be extensively and thoroughly recrafted by our award-winning cobbler to the SSIA Silver Cup contest standards. After a complete inspection, your shoes will be deconstructed and fully repaired, conditioned, and polished before being returned in Hanger Project shoe bags. We use only the highest-quality JR Rendenbach oak-bark tanned outsoles and combination heels.

Sovereign Grade Recrafting

Our Kirby Allison Sovereign Grade Recrafting is for those special pairs of shoes that demand additional attention and only the highest-quality workmanship. Only the highest-quality JR Rendenbach oak-bark tanned outsoles and combination heels. Our soles will be sewn on with an invisible channel stitch, where the leather is peeled back and reglued flat in order to conceal the sole stitching. Upon completion, every pair will be fully conditioned and polished using Saphir Medaille d’Or shoe polish.


 

Categories
Bespoke Lifestyle Uncategorized

The Value of Investing in a Custom Suit

The Value of Investing in a Custom Suit

Explained by Angel Ramos of ANGEL | BESPOKE

Kirby Allison sits down with Angel Ramos to talk about the value of investing in a custom suit. Angel Ramos is the Creative Director of ANGEL | BESPOKE. ANGEL | BESPOKE is a leading sartorial custom tailoring brand, offering clients an individualized experience under the guidance of a menswear visionary Angel Ramos. He is renown for his effortless style in artisanal menswear. He uses the highest quality fabrics from Italy and England.

The Value of Investing in a Custom Suit

What are the values of investing in a custom suit?

  1. Wearing a suit allows you to stand out from the crowd.

  2. Suits gives you an identity.

  3. They makes you look more professional.

  4. If you wear your custom suit over the weekend, you’re bound to get some attention.


Schedule a fitting with Angel here or snag a tie for your custom suit!

Categories
Lifestyle Tips by Kirby

10 Instagram Accounts for Shoe Aficionados

Instagram is a great platform for users to keep up with their hobbies. If you’re a shoe enthusiast, it’s great way to immerse yourself in the world of bespoke shoemaking. With that in mind, Kirby Allison, founder of The Hanger Project and bespoke shoe aficionado, took it upon himself to compile a list of his favorite 10 accounts for shoe aficionados. These accounts are not listed in any particular order, meaning the first one is not necessarily Kirby’s absolute favorite. Be sure to follow us on Instagram @HangerProject to stay updated on our latest arrivals, new videos, and more. Here are Kirby Allison’s favorite 10 instagram accounts for shoe aficionados:

George Cleverley @georgecleverley

George Cleverley

George Cleverley is a bespoke British shoemaker, and Kirby’s shoemaker of choice. Their Instagram account allows followers to have a behind the scenes look at the shoes that go through their workshop.

Jim McCormack @jims_shoeworkshop

Jims Shoeworkshop

Jim McCormack is widely regarded as one of West End’s best shoemakers. He is an independent shoemaker with contracts from several other shoemaking firms, and his profile highlights the process for the many shoes that he makes.

Ryo Hosokawa @bespokemakers

bespokemakers

Bespokemakers spotlights a lot of Japanese shoemakers and their work. The photography on the page is beautiful, and details different types of shoes and styles from around the world.

Saint Crispin’s Americas @saintcrispinsamericas

saintcrispins

This is Saint Crispin’s account for North and South America. Their Americas profile is different from the global Saint Crispin’s one, and features some of the best shoe photography on the internet. The shoes featured follow a wide variety of styles, and are an excellent source of ideas for future shoes.

Emiko Matsuda @emiko.matsuda

Emiko Matsuda

Emiko is the senior last maker for Foster & Son, the bespoke shoemaker from Jermyn Street in London. She does a great job in her profile of bringing the user into her workshop and detailing the work she is doing.

Ascot Shoes @ascotshoes

Ascot Shoes

This is one of the most active accounts on the list, posting almost every single day. Following Ascot Shoes is a great way to stay updated on the London shoemaking scene.

Yohei Fukuda @yoheifukudashoemaker

Yohei Fukuda

Yohei Fukuda is considered by many to be the best Japanese bespoke shoemaker. Japanese shoemaking is highly precise, perfectly executed, and almost sculpture-like. The photography on the page is stunning, and offers a great juxtaposition to traditional British shoemakers.

Daniel Wegan @dwegan1982

Daniel Wegan

Daniel is the senior last maker for Gaziano & Girling, and is known for being widely talented and an excellent shoemaker . This profile is another great example of how Instagram allows users to periscope into small workshops all around the world.

Lee Morrison @bespokeaddict

Lee Morrison

Lee is a prolific collector of vintage bespoke shoes. His collection is easily one of the largest bespoke shoe collections anyone has ever acquired in the world. His profile shows him painstakingly re-crafting and restoring the shoes in his collection.

Moti Pesso @mpesso1971

mpesso1971

This account does a wonderful job aggregating photos from different shoemakers’ profiles onto one account. This profile profile features both bespoke, and ready-to-wear shoemakers’ work, which gives followers plenty of variety.

Watch our full Top 10 Instagram Accounts for Shoe Aficionados video:

 

Categories
Lifestyle Tips by Kirby

Black-Tie Dress Code – The 9 Fundamentals

The black-tie dress code is the one bastion of classic menswear where the rules are so perfect there is no need to break them. There is a reason the rules have remained virtually unchanged over the last century and that’s because they just simply cannot be improved. A man looks his best when the black tie look is perfectly executed. More importantly, whenever you are following a black tie dress code, it shows to those that matter that you know what you’re doing.

In the same way that you wouldn’t show up to a basketball game wearing a football jersey, you don’t show up to a black tie event dressed inappropriately. A splash of color does not make you look debonair; it makes you look uninformed. Every rule that you follow makes you look better and every rule that you break makes you look worse. That’s why it is important to know the fundamental rules of a black tie dress code. Follow the rules perfectly, and you will never have to worry about showing up to a black tie event unprepared. The purpose of this primer is to explain the basic fundamentals of a black tie dress code so that you are able to follow, enjoy them and most importantly be a gentleman dressed at his best.

Rule #1: Dinner Jacket Should Have Peak Lapels Or Shawl Collar

Black Tie Dress Code - Dinner Jacket

A proper tuxedo jacket is either one with peak lapels or a shawl collar. It is important to have alternate facing satin or grosgrain lapels, meaning that the material that’s used for the facing of the label is different than the material that’s used for the actual jacket. Additionally, it is preferable for the jacket to have a single button and no pocket flaps. The jacket should also be made with no dents and the trousers should have a single vertical satin stripe with no cuffs. This ensemble has the cleanest most elegant look.

Rule #2: Wear A Self-Tie Bow Tie In The Same Material As Tuxedo Lapels

Black Tie Dress Code - Bow Tie

It is always best to have a self-tying bow tie made from the same material as your tuxedo lapels. If you are wearing a winged the collar, an adjustable bow tie exposes the slider at the back of the neck, therefore a specifically sized bow tie is always best. Nonetheless, if you have an adjustable sized bow tie, make sure that you are always wearing it with a fold down collar dress shirt.

Rule #3: Always Cover Your Waist With A Cummerbund Or Waist Coat

Black Tie Dress Code - Cummerbund

Covering your waist is one of those elements that separates black tie from daytime business wear. It further elongates the silhouette and elevates the ensemble. These subtle small elements taken together are what make black tie so special. If you are wearing a cummerbund, be careful to make sure that the pleats are facing upwards. The tradition is that you would use those pleats to hold your tickets for that evening’s entertainment. To shop for luxury formalwear accessories on our website, click here.

Rule #4: Wear A Thin, Formal Watch With A Leather Strap Or No Watch At All

Black Tie Dress Code - Formal Watch

While it’s not common, it is acceptable to wear a wristwatch to a black-tie event. As long as it is not a large sports watch, it can be an elegant dinner timepiece when paired with a leather strap. Ideally, you want to always try to match the hardware. Try to wear a gold wristwatch if you are wearing gold studs.

Rule #5: Wear A Neatly Folded White Pocket Square

Black Tie Dress Code - Pocket Square

If possible, it is best to wear a neatly folded, thin white pocket square in your jacket pocket. Just the simple addition of a white pocket square completes and elevates the entire look.

Rule #6: Wear Highly-Polished Black Shoes, Ideally Patent Leather

Black Tie Dress Code - Formal Shoes

Black shoes are a must-have. Make sure they are either polished to a high-shine or made of patent leather.  Plain cap-toe oxfords, whole cuts or opera pumps are ideal. It is unacceptable to wear shoes with broguing or any type of slippers. These are not the proper shoes to wear at a black-tie event. For more information on black tie dress code shoes, consider watching our video: Shoes You Should Wear For a Black Tie Event.

Rule #7: Wear Plain Black Over-The-Calf Silk Socks

Black Tie Dress Code - Socks

It is vital to wear silk socks to avoid the fuzzy or faded look. They elevate the formality and give a nice subtle sheen. Consider visiting our store for luxurious Italian black socks,

Rule #8: Wear A White Tuxedo Shirt With Studs And French Cuffs

Black Tie Dress Code - White Dress Shirt

With your tuxedo, it is essential to wear a plain white shirt with either a fold over collar or winged collar. If you have studs, it is a beautiful way to elevate the ensemble with a little bit of embellishment. If you do not have formal studs, then you want to be wearing a white shirt with a second covered placket. A covered placket is just an extra piece of fabric that flaps over the front of the shirt to conceal and cover the buttons. Remember if you do not have studs to show, you should have buttons that do not.  

Rule #9: You Can Wear Scarves, Formal Overcoats, And Gloves, But Not Inside

Black Tie Dress Code - Scarf, Formal Overcoat, and Gloves

There is nothing wrong with wearing a scarf and gloves as long as they come off once you go inside. Preferably, you would pair either a white or a black silk scarf to avoid a fuzzy, faded look.

Categories
Accessories Stationery Tips by Kirby

How To Use A Fountain Pen

Small, subtle details such as handwritten notes really express the fine character of an individual. Taking the time to use a beautiful, traditional fountain pen shows a strong sense of refinement that really sets you apart in this day in age. With this, you are given the freedom to customize your ink to show that extra hint of effort when creating a truly special note. The results are far more extraordinary than a regular rollerball pen making this an investment piece you can use forever.

Step 1:

fountain-pen

Take the pen apart and flush out all the previous ink. This is vital to making sure you are getting the correct ink color you are going for and to avoid any unwanted mixing of colors.

Step 2:

fountain-pen

Reload the converter with ink. What is nice about a cartridge converter is that you are able to have more control over the ink, as well as, the ability to reload it multiple times without the hassle of constantly buying new cartridges every time you want a change. You do this step similarly to how you would fill up a medicine syringe by sticking the converter into the ink well and pulling the ink in by reversing the piston.

Step 3:

fountain pen

Reinsert the converter back into the pen after wiping off any excess ink on the converter. This is essential to avoiding any messy damages that can occur. If you get the ink on anything, it will not come off, so making sure that you are taking the extra precautions will make using a fountain pen seamless.

Step 4:

fountain pen

Prime the pen by twisting the piston and thereby pushing the ink into the converter.  If it is a new pen, this process may take longer than for a pen that has already been used multiple times. Make sure you are doing this step either over a napkin or the ink barrel because ink will flush out. Once the ink begins to drop out of the pen, that means that it is fully flushed. Run the pen along a napkin to get all the excess ink off before beginning to write.

Step 5:

fountain pen

Screw the top of the pen back on and you are ready to begin.

Pens & Stationery

We recommend Goulet Pens because of their comprehensive collection of beautiful fountain pens and inks. For beautiful stationery, we suggest Crane where you can find unique stationery for your special handwritten notes.

Categories
Bespoke Lifestyle

Dimitri Gomez: Bespoke Shoemaker

Your first pair of bespoke shoes is a personal and exciting process. Kirby Allison, founder of The Hanger Project, visits Parisian shoemaker Dimitri Gomez to pick up his very first pair of bespoke shoes and gives us an inside look to traditional shoemaking methods. Dimitri Gomez is an incredibly well-respected shoemaker in Paris who is a true master of the craft. What’s special about Dimitri Gomez is that he is one of the few shoemakers who can take the measurements, cut the pattern and take the shoes straight to finish. 

Dimitri Gomez in his Paris shop

When spending money on bespoke, it is important to have a pair that you can wear forever. The style of Dimitri Gomez shoes Kirby decided on was a simple, black cap-toe oxford. For the shape of the toe, he wanted a beautiful almond cut versus a standard round or chiseled finish; definitely not something you’d see on an every day, ready to wear shoe. As a styling detail, Kirby chose six eyelets, in contrast to five to really set his shoes apart. The actual craftsmanship you see on the shoe is truly incredible. Dimitri: cuts the shoe out by hand, polishes, irons and then waxes them to completion. You can see the beautiful lines and the detailed stitching that runs through the shoe to create a truly custom design. Lastly, Dimitri includes toe taps to really reinforce and protect the toe of the shoe from large amounts of walking. These small details are really what highlights the true art of bespoke shoemaking. 

Finished Shoes

 

Dimitri takes pride in his work and really commits to assuring his clients the perfect fit. Kirby’s shoes were a bit tight, and Dimitri felt that the elastic needed to be elongated. This really showcases the true dedication of bespoke shoemakers and their strive for perfection. Dimitri Gomez is definitely one of the best shoemakers in France, and his level of commitment is what produces that kind of reputation. Dimitri Gomez is going to make a few more modifications to Kirby’s shoes, and when Kirby is back in October, he will pick up the finished pair.

Categories
Bespoke Lifestyle

Handmade Custom Gloves From France

We are excited to announce our newest Special Project, which is a digital trunk show of sorts. In collaboration with Lavabre Cadet, one of the world’s finest glove makers, we are allowing our customers to commission a pair of semi- Bespoke custom gloves. These gloves are made based on your hand tracings and a selection of different fabrics, with some absolutely unique and rare detailing. Maison Lavabre Cadet, founded in France in 1946, counts glamorous and famous individuals among its distinguished clientele, along with some of the most exacting luxury houses in the world such as Dior, Chanel, Givenchy, and Hermès.

These MTO (Made-To-Order) gloves are available in several different materials and colors, as well as the option to have their initials monogrammed onto one glove for no extra cost. Outside of going to France and having a meeting with Lavabre Cadet at their showroom, this is as close to Bespoke that you’re going to be able to get. Through our Special Project, we are offering access to two different materials. The first is kidskin, which we’re offering both in a polished kidskin and a suede kidskin. The second is peccary, which is available in three colors and a one-piece pattern or a two piece pattern.

Polished Kidskin


Lavabre Cadet is one of the last glove makers still using kidskin as material. Kidskin comes from a baby goat, whereas Nappa leather comes from baby lamb. Kidskin is generally considered to be the finer material because it’s softer and has more of a finesse than lambskin does. Lavabre Cadet Kidskin Gloves can be produced with inside machine stitching, which provides a sleeker, “dressier” appearance. However, clients may opt instead for outside hand stitching, which best allows for the exquisite workmanship to be fully appreciated (using up to 40% more stitches per inch than other high-end gantries).

Suede Kidskin

The Maison uses only the absolute finest hides and skins available, which perfectly complements its small-scale production. Lavabre Cadet’s exceptional quality is most evident in the incredibly precise hand stitching, complicated two-panel glove patterns, and even single-panel patterns. Unlike mass produced gloves, these are available in cashmere and silk linings sewn into the outer glove. Anytime a garment is constructed using glue, its longevity is compromised, but Lavabre Cadet sews in the lining so it’s actually two gloves in one and is of much higher quality.

Peccary

The king of all materials for glove making without question is peccary. A peccary is a small South-American rodent and it’s incredibly difficult to find in large enough pieces. What’s quite unique about what we’re offering and our Special Project is the opportunity to have Lavabre Cadet Peccary Gloves made out of a one-piece pattern. Normally, because of the difficulty in sourcing this material, it’s nearly impossible to find a large enough piece of the appropriate quality for the pattern to be made from a single piece. Many peccary gloves are cut from a two-piece pattern and have an interior seem. With this particular glove, it’s best as a one-piece pattern because there is no interior lining, so having stitching on the inside wouldn’t be comfortable. On these gloves, you can really see the hand stitching, and you’re only going to get that level of detail working with a company like Lavabre Cadet. This material is offered in three colors seen below: Dark Brown, Cork, or Dark Grey.

Custom Glove Sizing

We’re offering the opportunity to have a custom pattern and sizing done for you while we take care of the international business. It’s not full Bespoke, because technically in order to have a full Bespoke glove, Lavabre Cadet would need to do a trial glove for you, so this is more of a Semi-Bespoke program. It’s very important for MTO orders to have sizing done on each hand because everyone’s hands are different. Some may vary up to an inch of measurements of your right hand versus your left. To complete sizing when you order with us, you just have to submit two things:

  1. Measurement of each fist with the tape measure in the PDF document we send you
  2. Tracing of each hand onto the paper with your pencil at a 90-degree angle perpendicular to the page

The last step would be to mail these back to us here at The Hanger Project. We will compile all the orders together, staple your measurements with the details of your order, and reach out to you to go over those details before we physically send these to the atelier in France for them to go off of the original copies when developing your patterns. If you have any questions about these gloves, feel free to contact our customer service. Since this is an exclusive offer, we’re allowing two weeks for all orders to come in, so if you order by August 31st, 2017 gloves will be delivered by December 15th, 2017.