In this video, Kirby reveals the secrets and reasoning behind George Cleverly’s Twisted Last and how exactly does it affect the shoes fit.
In this video, Kirby reveals the secrets and reasoning behind George Cleverly’s Twisted Last and how exactly does it affect the shoes fit.
GET YOURS HERE: https://www.hangerproject.com/el-casc… Possibly the greatest pencil sharpener ever created, the El Casco M-430 Pencil Sharpener will forever change the way you look at a sharpened pencil. Crafted in Spain by a 100-year-old former gun manufacturer, the El Casco pencil sharpener is a brilliant piece of mechanical engineering. What makes this pencil sharpener exceptional is the unique, concave point it creates. The shape of the pencil point extends the sharpness of your pencil and eliminates any initial breaking that occurs with sharp, linear points. If you regularly write with pencils or if you enjoy mechanical desk swag, this will be a purchase, like me, you won’t ever regret. We are offering this as a special group buys with delivery mid-September. Manufactured in steel and zamak. Black lacquered body. Hand-polished copper, nickel and chrome-plated components. Wooden crank handle. Sharpness regulator with four adjustable point lengths. Suction pad base. Dimensions: 110 x 110 x 150 mm. Presented in a gift box. Made in Spain.
What are the differences between a $100 RTW shirt and a $1000 bespoke shirt? Just like with suiting, there is a huge range of quality and craftsmanship available.
The biggest difference is the bespoke pattern. The pattern is made to your exact measurements and specifications. RTW shirts are made on a block pattern that is made to fit as many different body types as possible creating a limited quality of fit with an RTW shirt.
You can specify any detail, cuff, collar, collar Hight, spread width, etc. with a bespoke shirt, something that even MTM shirts cannot attain.
The goal of the fit of a bespoke shirt is not to be VERY tight. A good shirt should allow for free range of motion, while not being baggy. If your shirt, suit, or any article of tailored clothing are not the most comfortable article of clothing in your wardrobe, they don’t fit right.
Another important difference between a bespoke and an RTW shirt is the armhole size. On an RTW shirt, the armhole and fit in general is cut to fit a lot of different people, while on a bespoke it is cut as close as possible to give the best movement. A low arm hole makes your shirt come untucked much easier.
To see all the differences between his bespoke shirts and RTW, follow the link below!
Savile Row Walking Tour
During our trip to London earlier this year, we had the distinct pleasure of getting to tour many of the most prolific tailors on Savile Row to discuss what makes each house style unique.
Huntsman is one of the oldest and most prolific tailors on Savile Row. Founded in 1849 by Henry Huntsman, Huntsman has been on the same location on Savile Row for 100 years. The Huntsman House cut is characterized by a single button, high waisted cut that is deeply rooted in equestrian riding. A style that is really world-renowned in tailoring. The suit is completely hand-cut and hand-sewn by master tailors.
Chittleborough & Morgan
While there are many historic tailors on the Row, they are also many emerging/more modern tailors. One of them is Chittleborough & Morgan. Joe Morgan the head cutter was one of the original tailors at the legendary NUTTERS of Savile Row back in the 60s and 70s before striking out with Roy Chittleborough (now retired) to start their own firm. Chittleborough & Morgan are known for their exuberant house style, featuring a very padded shoulder, wide lapels, and a nipped waist. Chittleborough & Morgan take pride in taking care of every detail, both seen and unseen. They will even hand stitch scenes onto the canvas on the insides of jackets.
Gaziano and Girling
Gaziano and Girling are the first and only luxury shoemakers on the row. Making shoes with the same quality of materials as their bespoke offering, Gaziano and Girling offer one of the finest Ready-to-Wear shoes in the world. The shoes feature details like a fiddleback waist typically seen on bespoke shoes, as well as a high-density stitched outsole with an invisible channel stitching. Gaziano and Girling are known for having a modern British aesthetic with a more chiseled toe shape on popular models like St James II. For those who want a more conservative shoe, Gaziano & Girling have developed their Classic Range, which features more subdued detailing.
Henry Poole is the original tailor on Savile Row, dating their inception back to 1806. While Poole is the oldest tailor on the row, their style has been continually updated to keep with modern tastes and needs. The coat is cut with a close chest and a neat, non-roped sleeve head. The chest and back are cut with no extra fabric with the exception of a bit a drape in the sleeves.
Anderson & Shepard
Unlike many of the other tailors on Savile Row and the UK, Anderson & Shepard is really known for their soft tailoring style, where comfort is key. The house style is characterized by a high armhole and a full cut chest, creating a jacket that is as comfortable after a day of wearing as when it is put on. According to the head cutter, everything about the cut has a softness to it and nothing is to sharp. Anderson & Shepard is also known for dressing some of the most famous men of the golden age of Hollywood such as Fred Astaire and Cary Grant.
For more details on our visit and to hear the conversations between Kirby and the tailors follow the link in below!
What Makes A Savile Row Tailor Unique? Join Kirby Allison as we explore the house styles of Savile Row’s most-important and famous bespoke tailoring houses, as well as the only shoemaker located on the Row. These firms are synonymous with elegance and class and have been serving the sartorial needs royalty, heads of states, industrialists, and the well-dressed for the better part of a century. Now you can join Kirby as we are invited inside to meet with the titans of bespoke tailoring, from Huntsman, Chittleborough & Morgan, Gaziano & Girling, Henry Poole, and Anderson & Sheppard.
During our recent trip to London, we had the pleasure of stopping by the prestigious Huntsman tailor, which is known from the spy series Kingsman. Huntsman is the inspiration for the location of the fictional spy agency Kingsman, which is situated in a Savile Row tailoring house. Huntsman designed and produced the looks for all the Kingsman films, creating an extremely authentic British feel for the looks.
Huntsman is one of the oldest and most prolific tailors on Savile Row. Founded in 1849 by Henry Huntsman, Huntsman has been on the same location on Savile Row for 100 years. The Huntsman House cut is characterized by a single button, high waisted cut that is deeply rooted in equestrian riding. A style that is really world-renowned in tailoring. The suit is completely hand cut and hand-sewn by master tailors.
For the full tour of Huntsman tailor on Savile Row, follow the link below!
The Carmina Shoe Review – Chestnut SEMI-BROGUE Oxfords is made with a beautiful chestnut vegetable tanned leather on their Inca last. The shoe features broguing on the toe cap, vamp, and rear quarters. I really appreciate Carmina’s ability to retain all of the broguing elements one would expect on a semi-brogue without the shoe being overwhelmed or looking too busy. This is achieved with several techniques we’ll discuss in a bit. The shoe retails for $495 with free shipping in the United States. For those located outside the United States, they can be purchased from Carmina’s European webshop for 410€. Cedar shoe trees are an additional $70.
DESIGN The Carmina #80251 Semi-Brogue Oxfords are made in a beautiful, light-brown chestnut vegetable tanned leather on the company’s Inca last. This shoe has all of the traditional elements of a semi-brogue, with its medallion and broguing elements, but without being overwhelming or looking too busy. In fact, for a semi-brogue, it is actually quite a clean looking shoe, which I really appreciate. There is a great balance between the beautiful, open leather pieces and the broguing, which showcases the natural beauty of the vegetable tanned leather. Carmina is able to achieve this balance on the #80251 using several techniques. First, they use single-needle stitching along the broguing. I have seen this done by other makers using double-stitching, essentially creating four rows of stitching along the broguing, and it creates a very heavy look. This is not the case on these Carminas. As with all Carminas, these shoes have only five eyelets, which, when combined with the tighter broguing pattern and single-needle stitching, opens up and elongates the vamp. The front cap is still quite large and balanced, but not at the expense of having a nice, open vamp. The benefit of a large, open vamp is that it allows the shoe to better control creasing and ensures that the shoe does not crease across the cap or other pattern elements.
MATERIAL This particular model is made out of Carmina’s chestnut vegetable tanned leather. Vegetable tanned leather is tanned using vegetable madders, like oak or spruce bark, chestnut wood, etc, and is a more traditional way of tanning. It produces a leather that is yellow or light-beige in color and is softer, more natural looking than chrome tanned leathers. Full leather outsoles are used, with full-leather heel blocks and combination top-lifts. And metal toe-taps can be added at an additional charge if purchased through Carmina’s website.
CONSTRUCTION Carmina is so well-known amongst shoe enthusiasts because of how well their shoes are constructed. All of the elements of quality and craftsmanship that one would expect on a high-quality pair of factory-made, Goodyear welted shoes can be found here. Beyond this price point, you begin to hit the point of diminishing marginal return. But the value here is quite exceptional. The Goodyear welting allows for a pair of shoes to be easily resoled without disturbing the integrity, fit, or shape of the shoe. The outsole can be easily pulled off and a new one sewn back on by a skilled cobbler, like our Kirby Allison Certified Shoe Restoration Program. Another element, and one I find very important is that the outsole is stitched to the welt using an invisible channel, as opposed to an open channel found on shoes like Allen Edmonds. This creates a much more beautiful outsole that conceals the outsole stitching. The outsoles are also dyed and polished to a nice light-brown color. Again, all extra steps in the finishing process.
SUMMARY AND ENDING Carmina is passionate for shoemaking, and everything about how these shoes are constructed and finished is superb. At $450, they are an incredible value and a shoe that anyone could be proud to wear anywhere.
In today’s post, we will be going over the unboxing of Kirby’s Gaziano & Girling trial bespoke black cap-toe oxford.
For those that have been following along with this process, there is no question that Daniel Wegan, the 2019 World Championship in Shoe Making Champion, has one of the most precise and exacting bespoke processes of any of the makers that we at Kirby Allison’s Hanger Project have seen.
There have been three fittings for this shoe where Daniel has done a trial shoe, then cut it up to see exactly how the last is mimicking the foot, and how the shoe is fitting. Specifically, the way the shoe is reacting and whether or not the creasing is in the right place. All these steps working towards this current stage, where Daniel then makes a fully wearable trial shoe. The purpose of the wearable trial shoe is to have a final point of validation to ensure that everything is perfect and correct with the shoe and the last fitting before producing the final shoe. This is an ethical way of doing his work because it ensures that by the time you receive your first shoe from Daniel and Gaziano & Girling, it is going to fit perfectly. There should be no adjustments needed, or perhaps only minor adjustments, rather than having to begin the process of refining the last and fit, in subsequent pairs of shoes, as some other shoemakers do.
These shoes are meant to be considered a throwaway pair of shoes, simply to validate the fit. Daniel instructed that if the shoes fit perfectly, then Kirby was able to simply throw the shoes away. If after a few days there is anything that feels like it is a little off, then Kirby will take them to see Daniel, who will cut them up and check the fit.
The shoes are not welted and have just a simple rubber outsole. They are meant to reproduce the structure of the final shoe and be worn outside for a few days.
For the full analysis of the fit of Kirby’s new trial shoes, follow the link below!
Over the past several months we have been going through the thorough MyTailor measurement and fitting processes. Joe Hemrajani is the man behind MyTailor and their operation in Hong Kong. Joe started in the tailoring industry in the 70s as an apprentice in his family’s shop. After studying in Germany to learn more advanced manufacturing techniques, he and his brothers started doing trunk shows throughout the U.S. and still travel here to this day.
Kirby commissioned a couple of different pieces from the different lines that MyTailor offers. The first being an exquisite Holland and Sherry, Sherry Cash sport jacket. This jacket was made from MyTailors more economical line, with predominantly machine-made construction, with the notable exceptions of the handsewn collar and armhole attachments. The pattern is developed through a CAD system, which is a computer system that creates the pattern based on the measurements taken and then imputed by the tailor.
The second item Kirby commissioned was a fully handsewn and hand cut suit with two trousers cut in different styles. The jacket features many handsewn details such as a hand padded label and all hand stitch buttonholes. For the trousers, the first trouser being a more relaxed silhouette designed to be worn with braces to create a line that drapes beautifully. The second being slightly more fitted while still having an incredible drape. Cut in the same, great Drapers 5 Star Fabric, the second trouser features side adjusters and a high waisted fit. The leg tapers slightly from the knee down, creating a clean, modern line.
For a full analysis for Kirby’s new commissions as well as the full process, see the videos linked below…
We are pleased to offer this rare, exclusive opportunity for a bespoke-quality Lavabre Cadet gloves without the visit to Paris. Each pair of gloves commissioned through this Special Project will be handcrafted from an individualized pattern based on hand tracings provided by you. These custom handmade gloves are available in the rare materials of polished kidskin, suede kidskin, or peccary and now alligator.
Lavabre Cadet is one of the few glove makers out there still making gloves out of kidskin. It is the skin from a baby goat versus most gloves which are made from Nappa leather. Kidskin is incredibly soft and supple and a luxurious material for gloves. The nerves of our kidskin gloves are sewn by hand which gives a nice subtle wave and elegance to the palm of the hand. Our kidskin gloves are available with inside machine stitching which allows for a formal sleek look or outside machine stitching. Alternatively, for an additional level of workmanship, outside hand stitching is available upon special request.
After every order is confirmed we will follow up with you and send you a hand tracing and sketching sheet that includes everything you need to take your hand tracings. Then we ask that you mail them back to us or scan and email them. Once all the special orders have been bundled together we’re gonna send all these to the Lavabre Cadet Maitre Gantier so that they can create your customized pattern based on your hand tracing.