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Accessories Lifestyle Tips by Kirby Uncategorized

How to Shave Like Kirby Allison I Wet Shaving tutorial

In this video, Kirby goes step by step on how to wet shave like a pro. All of the products you will need, the steps to create a perfect lather, and tips on how to use a safety razor on sensitive parts of the face. We love hearing back from our customers and audience and endeavor to respond to any and all questions.

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Bespoke Lifestyle

George Cleverly Secrets Revealed Twisted Last

In this video, Kirby reveals the secrets and reasoning behind George Cleverly’s Twisted Last and how exactly does it affect the shoes fit.

 

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Accessories Bespoke Books Lifestyle Stationery Tips by Kirby

Sharpening Pencils ASMR ✏ El Casco M-430 Sharpener

GET YOURS HERE: https://www.hangerproject.com/el-casc… Possibly the greatest pencil sharpener ever created, the El Casco M-430 Pencil Sharpener will forever change the way you look at a sharpened pencil. Crafted in Spain by a 100-year-old former gun manufacturer, the El Casco pencil sharpener is a brilliant piece of mechanical engineering. What makes this pencil sharpener exceptional is the unique, concave point it creates. The shape of the pencil point extends the sharpness of your pencil and eliminates any initial breaking that occurs with sharp, linear points. If you regularly write with pencils or if you enjoy mechanical desk swag, this will be a purchase, like me, you won’t ever regret. We are offering this as a special group buys with delivery mid-September. Manufactured in steel and zamak. Black lacquered body. Hand-polished copper, nickel and chrome-plated components. Wooden crank handle. Sharpness regulator with four adjustable point lengths. Suction pad base. Dimensions: 110 x 110 x 150 mm. Presented in a gift box. Made in Spain.

 

 

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Bespoke Garment Care Lifestyle Uncategorized

$100 Shirt vs $1000 Shirt Comparison ? | Kirby Allison

What are the differences between a $100 RTW shirt and a $1000 bespoke shirt? Just like with suiting, there is a huge range of quality and craftsmanship available.

The biggest difference is the bespoke pattern. The pattern is made to your exact measurements and specifications. RTW shirts are made on a block pattern that is made to fit as many different body types as possible creating a limited quality of fit with an RTW shirt.

You can specify any detail, cuff, collar, collar Hight, spread width, etc. with a bespoke shirt, something that even MTM shirts cannot attain.

 

The goal of the fit of a bespoke shirt is not to be VERY tight. A good shirt should allow for free range of motion, while not being baggy. If your shirt, suit, or any article of tailored clothing are not the most comfortable article of clothing in your wardrobe, they don’t fit right.

 

Another important difference between a bespoke and an RTW shirt is the armhole size. On an RTW shirt, the armhole and fit in general is cut to fit a lot of different people, while on a bespoke it is cut as close as possible to give the best movement. A low arm hole makes your shirt come untucked much easier.

 

To see all the differences between his bespoke shirts and RTW, follow the link below!

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Bespoke Lifestyle News Travel

London Savile Row Walking Tour | Huntsman v Henry Poole v Anderson & Sheppard House Style Comparison

Savile Row Walking Tour

During our trip to London earlier this year, we had the distinct pleasure of getting to tour many of the most prolific tailors on Savile Row to discuss what makes each house style unique.

 

Huntsman Tailor

Huntsman is one of the oldest and most prolific tailors on Savile Row. Founded in 1849 by Henry Huntsman, Huntsman has been on the same location on Savile Row for 100 years.  The Huntsman House cut is characterized by a single button, high waisted cut that is deeply rooted in equestrian riding. A style that is really world-renowned in tailoring. The suit is completely hand-cut and hand-sewn by master tailors.

 

Chittleborough & Morgan

While there are many historic tailors on the Row, they are also many emerging/more modern tailors. One of them is Chittleborough & Morgan. Joe Morgan the head cutter was one of the original tailors at the legendary NUTTERS of Savile Row back in the 60s and 70s before striking out with Roy Chittleborough (now retired) to start their own firm. Chittleborough & Morgan are known for their exuberant house style, featuring a very padded shoulder, wide lapels, and a nipped waist. Chittleborough & Morgan take pride in taking care of every detail, both seen and unseen. They will even hand stitch scenes onto the canvas on the insides of jackets.

 

Gaziano and Girling

Gaziano and Girling are the first and only luxury shoemakers on the row. Making shoes with the same quality of materials as their bespoke offering, Gaziano and Girling offer one of the finest Ready-to-Wear shoes in the world. The shoes feature details like a fiddleback waist typically seen on bespoke shoes, as well as a high-density stitched outsole with an invisible channel stitching. Gaziano and Girling are known for having a modern British aesthetic with a more chiseled toe shape on popular models like St James II. For those who want a more conservative shoe, Gaziano & Girling have developed their Classic Range, which features more subdued detailing.

 

Henry Poole

Henry Poole is the original tailor on Savile Row, dating their inception back to 1806. While Poole is the oldest tailor on the row, their style has been continually updated to keep with modern tastes and needs. The coat is cut with a close chest and a neat, non-roped sleeve head. The chest and back are cut with no extra fabric with the exception of a bit a drape in the sleeves.

Anderson & Shepard

Unlike many of the other tailors on Savile Row and the UK, Anderson & Shepard is really known for their soft tailoring style, where comfort is key. The house style is characterized by a high armhole and a full cut chest, creating a jacket that is as comfortable after a day of wearing as when it is put on. According to the head cutter, everything about the cut has a softness to it and nothing is to sharp. Anderson & Shepard is also known for dressing some of the most famous men of the golden age of Hollywood such as Fred Astaire and Cary Grant.

 

For more details on our visit and to hear the conversations between Kirby and the tailors follow the link in below!

https://youtu.be/fgCDHWI-xYo

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Bespoke Lifestyle Tips by Kirby Travel

London Savile Row Walking Tour | Huntsman v Henry Poole v Anderson & Sheppard House Style Comparison

What Makes A Savile Row Tailor Unique? Join Kirby Allison as we explore the house styles of Savile Row’s most-important and famous bespoke tailoring houses, as well as the only shoemaker located on the Row. These firms are synonymous with elegance and class and have been serving the sartorial needs royalty, heads of states, industrialists, and the well-dressed for the better part of a century. Now you can join Kirby as we are invited inside to meet with the titans of bespoke tailoring, from Huntsman, Chittleborough & Morgan, Gaziano & Girling, Henry Poole, and Anderson & Sheppard.

 

 

 

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FAQ's Lifestyle

Bringing the Heat – Tips for Professional Summer Dressing

For those who are occupationally required to be well dressed or those who just like to, the summer can be an especially daunting time. The scorching temperatures and humidity are just a couple of the things that make dressing well during the summer less enjoyable. We probably all have memories of being suited up for work or a meeting, and under neither your jacket, are sweating profusely.  With KAHP being located in North Texas we are all extremely familiar with the hot weather and how to adapt to it. These tips will hopefully make your summer wardrobe feel much cooler, both literally and figuratively.

The biggest thing to remember with dressing during the summer is airflow. Selecting fabrics that have an open weave is essential to staying cool. Many fabrics may seem light but would be less than ideal for hotter climates. Many suiting and trouser fabrics are woven in a tight/fine weave that can feel very silky and lightweight. Do not be fooled, while it may be lightweight, it will wear warm. When a fabric has a tight weave, air cannot pass through the fabric as easily. When selecting fabrics for summer, hold up the fabric to light to see how much light is passing through, how much can you see through the fabric? Not long ago, I bought a pinstripe suit in lightweight wool and was planning to wear it all year long. I was having to be especially active at work and was burning up by the end of the day. While many may see wool as a no-go summer fabric, not all wools are created equal and some are excellent for the for sizzling months. Enter fresco, high twist, and tropical weight wools. These fabrics have an especially open weave/breathable that is also incredibly wrinkle resistant. I bought a 100% Wool Fresco jacket made with Loro Piana fabric, it shipped from Norway and ended up taking three weeks to arrive. Upon arrival in a very sketchy looking parcel, the jacket shook out and had no wrinkles whatsoever. For gentlemen who need to wear a jacket to work, this is what you should be looking for your primary fabric for your summer suit, jacket, and trousers.

Another great option for a summer fabric is a Wool blend (e.g. Blended with Silk, Linen, Cotton, etc.). These blend in different volumes makes incredible sport coats! The wool provides the needed structure and wrinkle resistance that would otherwise be lacking from something like a 100% Linen coat. The silk can add a subtle touch of sheen, and the linen and cotton can kick in a great slub and lightness. Creating some of the best all-around summer sportscoat fabrics. Selecting a Wool blended with a few of these other fabrics in a lighter color and a classic pattern will seamlessly work into any professional man’s wardrobe.

 

But what about something a little more, imaginative? This area may be one of the most fun categories of dressing, it is where you can dress up, but don’t necessarily need to.  A great option for the summer is a casual lightweight sport coat with little to no structure with either a lightweight chino or a light color jean. This kind of combinations is an excellent way to experiment with color, texture, and patterns to create something unique but still classic.  One great example of this is the summer classic, the madras jacket.

This one from made from 100% linen with no canvas or padding is a great way to pull a very casual outfit together.

 

Like southern gentlemen of times past, a great cotton suit is a great way to push through the heat.  A great tan poplin suit is a classic and enjoyable option for the summer that can be dressed up or down. Pairing with a sky-blue end on end shirt and tie for when you need to be comfortable but formal. The tan poplin suit looks equally great dressed down, with an open collar linen shirt and loafers that is a great look for the weekend.

Another variant of this that you can wear in a very similar way is a cream cotton or linen suit. Definitely more daring in regard to color, especially if you are afraid of stains.

 

With almost everything, the little details are going to be what sets you apart from the pack, especially for the summer. Having a jacket with less structure and lighter canvas (or no canvas) will ensure better ventilation for very unpleasant heat. While I know many who are averse to it, a partial jacket lining will help keep you cooler. A half or French lined jacket is a detail that is not only aesthetically pleasing but profoundly functional.

There are many options for dressing for summer but evaluating your needs and wants out of your clothes is important. What may be the right option for me may be entirely wrong for someone else. If you are unsure of what will work best for you, I recommend going to a great local retailer that stocks the items that you think may be a good option for you. Go and try on a couple of different styles and fits to get a feel for what you like. Another option would be commissioning a custom piece, this way you can ensure that the fit will be to your liking and that the fabric will be exactly what you need. While we will always do our best to give you excellent, expert advice, trial, and error are the best style teacher.

If you have any questions about what we covered in this article or have any questions about menswear, send me an email at caleb@hangerproject.com

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FAQ's Lifestyle News

Dress for Success! – What to Wear for an Interview

Many of you may feel that what you wear for an interview is a secondary concern, but a couple of months ago, it was the top thought on my mind. I had been contacted by Kirby to meet following the news that I was going to the finals of the World Championship in Shoe Shining. Working in men’s clothing retail, I was typically one of the best-dressed guys most places I went and never gave it much thought past that. This occasion was different though. Knowing that Kirby was a man of both knowledge and taste on all things menswear I really had to think through what I would wear to our meeting. I thought about all the little details that he may notice; did I pick a good tie, did my jacket fit properly, were my pants to0 short(probably). I nervously put a couple looks together before deciding what I would wear.

While being prepared for all the questions in an interview about your work experience, product knowledge, and education are all extremely important, there is no denying that a strong visual impression is made when you meet someone for the first time, either conscious or subconscious. Whether you are someone like me who cares about clothes and the minutia of style, or just someone who wants to be presentable and respectful for your interview these guidelines will definitely point you in the right direction.

  1. A solid foundation

Every outfit must have a solid foundation, and for men that means shoes. If you are budgeting how much to spend on an outfit for an interview or just to have in your wardrobe, I highly recommend spending the most on your shoes. If you purchase a pair of high-quality shoes and maintain them well, they can last decades. I used to shine shoes for my tailor, and he had many pairs of beautiful Berluti whole cut shoes that he had been given as a gift. They were in immaculate condition and incredibly classic. He told me that the shoes were probably older than I am. Although he wore them gently, he also took proper care of them, something every young professional should learn how to do.

We recommend that for your footwear that you select a black or espresso leather cap toe oxford lace up. While these may seem like a boring and unexciting shoe to spend a significant amount of money on, remember this. An interview is not a time to show “self-expression” through your clothing. Wearing a well-polished pair of oxfords is a simple and elegant choice that shows professionalism.

  1. The Armor

It sounds clique at this point, but it is true, a suit really is a man’s modern armor. While your job may not require a suit, we wholeheartedly recommend having one. If you are only are going to have one suit in your wardrobe, it should be navy. The great thing about a navy suit in a year-round weight fabric is that it can act as three different outfits.

One, the full suit. You cannot go wrong wearing a suit to an interview. The worst thing that can happen is being slightly overdressed, which we believe to be much better than being underdressed.

Two, just the jacket. If you get a suit in a lightweight fresco or tropical wool, the suit jacket can double as an excellent blazer that would look very smart with grey or tan wool trousers.

Third, just trousers. The navy trouser is a staple of every man’s wardrobe and looks great with just a shirt and tie, or with an odd jacket (more on that later)

  1. Fit, fit, and fit!

Unlike many types of clothing that can fit well with no alterations, tailoring is not one of those things. Regardless of how much you spend on your suit or blazer, getting it tailored is key. It is always better to have a cheap suit that has been altered, vs an expensive one that does not fit. Finding a good alterations tailor can be very difficult and costly depending on where you are, but once you find one that is good, you will find yourself taking in old items to get the fit perfect.

We will cover proper etiquette for getting alterations in the future…

One important thing to remember when starting out with tailoring is that a good alterations tailor will know how to alter your clothes to fit your body type best. Your jacket should have a bit of shape without being tight. Having a ¼ inch of shirt cuff showing is the perfect amount.

The trousers should fit comfortably, while still having good lines. I would opt for a slight break in your trousers. If they are too long, they will look sloppy, too short and you might look like you are a bit too fashionable(me).

  1. Button Up

This will be the easiest part of your outfit to choose. Wear a white poplin dress shirt with a spread collar and button cuffs.  The hardest part of finding a good dress shirt is finding the right collar that will compliment your tie as well as your suit. If your suit has a wider lapel, then picking a shirt with small collar point would look disproportional. You should aim to have your lapel width, collar point, and tie width all about the same width.

  1. Accessories

This is where many guys feel the need to go overboard, in an interview, wearing a tie bar, cufflinks, or other such items would not be appropriate. Remember that less is more, and subtlety is key. There are only two or three things you should be wearing, tie, pocket square, and maybe a watch.

For the tie, I would recommend a grenadine weave tie in either a solid dark color or with a stripe to add just a little something. A crisp white pocket square in a TV fold with just a small amount showing will do the trick.

  1. Conclusion

This sums up the outfit I wore to my first meeting with Kirby almost exactly. I wore a Dark Blue Tropical Wool Jacket, Medium Grey Trousers, spread collar dress shirt, double monk strap shoes, a dark green grenadine tie, and a white pocket square.

I remember walking into my meeting with Kirby feeling confident, nothing was too showy, the fit was good, and I was ready. Hopefully, this article will help alleviate some of the stress of whatever interview you are preparing for and help you feel confident and ready.

 

If you have any questions about what we covered in this article or have any questions about menswear, send me an email at caleb@hangerproject.com

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Bespoke Lifestyle Travel Uncategorized

The REAL Kingsman Tailor, Huntsman of Savile Row

During our recent trip to London, we had the pleasure of stopping by the prestigious Huntsman tailor, which is known from the spy series Kingsman. Huntsman is the inspiration for the location of the fictional spy agency Kingsman, which is situated in a Savile Row tailoring house. Huntsman designed and produced the looks for all the Kingsman films, creating an extremely authentic British feel for the looks.

Huntsman is one of the oldest and most prolific tailors on Savile Row. Founded in 1849 by Henry Huntsman, Huntsman has been on the same location on Savile Row for 100 years.  The Huntsman House cut is characterized by a single button, high waisted cut that is deeply rooted in equestrian riding. A style that is really world-renowned in tailoring. The suit is completely hand cut and hand-sewn by master tailors.

For the full tour of Huntsman tailor on Savile Row, follow the link below!

 

 

 

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Bespoke

Carmina Shoe Review – Chestnut SEMI-BROGUE Oxfords ?

The Carmina Shoe Review – Chestnut SEMI-BROGUE Oxfords is made with a beautiful chestnut vegetable tanned leather on their Inca last. The shoe features broguing on the toe cap, vamp, and rear quarters. I really appreciate Carmina’s ability to retain all of the broguing elements one would expect on a semi-brogue without the shoe being overwhelmed or looking too busy. This is achieved with several techniques we’ll discuss in a bit. The shoe retails for $495 with free shipping in the United States. For those located outside the United States, they can be purchased from Carmina’s European webshop for 410€. Cedar shoe trees are an additional $70.

DESIGN The Carmina #80251 Semi-Brogue Oxfords are made in a beautiful, light-brown chestnut vegetable tanned leather on the company’s Inca last. This shoe has all of the traditional elements of a semi-brogue, with its medallion and broguing elements, but without being overwhelming or looking too busy. In fact, for a semi-brogue, it is actually quite a clean looking shoe, which I really appreciate. There is a great balance between the beautiful, open leather pieces and the broguing, which showcases the natural beauty of the vegetable tanned leather. Carmina is able to achieve this balance on the #80251 using several techniques. First, they use single-needle stitching along the broguing. I have seen this done by other makers using double-stitching, essentially creating four rows of stitching along the broguing, and it creates a very heavy look. This is not the case on these Carminas. As with all Carminas, these shoes have only five eyelets, which, when combined with the tighter broguing pattern and single-needle stitching, opens up and elongates the vamp. The front cap is still quite large and balanced, but not at the expense of having a nice, open vamp. The benefit of a large, open vamp is that it allows the shoe to better control creasing and ensures that the shoe does not crease across the cap or other pattern elements.

MATERIAL This particular model is made out of Carmina’s chestnut vegetable tanned leather. Vegetable tanned leather is tanned using vegetable madders, like oak or spruce bark, chestnut wood, etc, and is a more traditional way of tanning. It produces a leather that is yellow or light-beige in color and is softer, more natural looking than chrome tanned leathers. Full leather outsoles are used, with full-leather heel blocks and combination top-lifts. And metal toe-taps can be added at an additional charge if purchased through Carmina’s website.

CONSTRUCTION Carmina is so well-known amongst shoe enthusiasts because of how well their shoes are constructed. All of the elements of quality and craftsmanship that one would expect on a high-quality pair of factory-made, Goodyear welted shoes can be found here. Beyond this price point, you begin to hit the point of diminishing marginal return. But the value here is quite exceptional. The Goodyear welting allows for a pair of shoes to be easily resoled without disturbing the integrity, fit, or shape of the shoe. The outsole can be easily pulled off and a new one sewn back on by a skilled cobbler, like our Kirby Allison Certified Shoe Restoration Program. Another element, and one I find very important is that the outsole is stitched to the welt using an invisible channel, as opposed to an open channel found on shoes like Allen Edmonds. This creates a much more beautiful outsole that conceals the outsole stitching. The outsoles are also dyed and polished to a nice light-brown color. Again, all extra steps in the finishing process.

SUMMARY AND ENDING Carmina is passionate for shoemaking, and everything about how these shoes are constructed and finished is superb. At $450, they are an incredible value and a shoe that anyone could be proud to wear anywhere.