Essential Odd Trousers

An odd trouser wardrobe should be a mixed lot of fabrics and weights that suits every season. Depending on how often you wear them, you’ll need at least five, and more likely ten, pair for warm days and the same for cooler weather.

I’ve divided the essentials into casual and dress trousers with the idea being that casuals can take a little dirt. You might wear them with a jacket but they’ll be paired with a sweater or a polo more often than not.

Casual Trousers

-Khaki cotton drill. Gentleman’s jeans for weekend wear. Olive is another classic color.
-Cotton moleskin. Soft and warm trousers for the cold.
-Cords. In moss and mouse, for cool weather from Fall to Spring, with sweaters or odd jackets.
-Poplin. Spring casuals for golf and similar pursuits. Try a soft pink.

Dress Trousers

-Gray flannels. Every wardrobe needs at least two pair, in mid-gray and charcoal. Aficionados also like them in light gray for Spring (like the hatted fellow in the illustration) , and in weights from medium to heavy. As Alan Flusser wrote, “If you are considering a new sport jacket and are having difficulty visualizing it with a medium gray trouser, move on.”
-Fawn and cream flannels. A change of pace from gray.
-Gabardines. Silky smooth trousers are ideal for much of the year in California and similar climates. Wear them in cream, brown and olive.
-Tan cavalry twill. With a navy odd jacket it’s the English uniform.
-Linen. Linen breathes, so it’s a good choice for hot weather. Get the heaviest linen you can find, because heavier fabric will drape better and rumple rather than wrinkle. Think in terms of half a dozen pair in cream, tan, brown and mustard.
-Light gray and tan fresco trousers. More summer wear. Fresco doesn’t wrinkle like linen and it holds a crease. Wear them on unrumpled occasions with a tan or navy odd jacket.

This archival content is republished verbatim.

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